The Wing or the Thigh?
The Wing or the Thigh?
| 11 November 1976 (USA)
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Charles Duchemin, a well-known gourmet and publisher of a famous restaurant guide, is waging a war against fast food entrepreneur Tri- catel to save the French art of cooking. After having agreed to appear on a talk show to show his skills in naming food and wine by taste, he is confronted with two disasters: his son wants to become a clown rather than a restaurant tester and he, the famous Charles Duchemin, has lost his taste!

Reviews
Protraph

Lack of good storyline.

Spidersecu

Don't Believe the Hype

Calum Hutton

It's a good bad... and worth a popcorn matinée. While it's easy to lament what could have been...

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Tobias Burrows

It's easily one of the freshest, sharpest and most enjoyable films of this year.

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markwood272

Saw this in an un-subtitled version 8/6/15. Monsieur DeFunes is in fine form as a champion of traditional French gastronomy farcically at war with "industrial" cuisine. The pairing with Coluche works better than a bottle of Bordeaux alongside a plate of bifteck frites. DeFunes' Donald Duck persona complements Coluche's sad clown, the son of DeFunes' character secretly pursuing a career in greasepaint under le big top. The whole thing must have worked for me because I laughed. Here is a very entertaining movie. After having seen several DeFunes movies, I find myself asking once again, why didn't this talent catch on in America, other than very modestly for his work in "Rabbi Jacob"? (1973) The guy was funny. Coluche was not going for the big laughs in the movie here, instead playing in convincing fashion a sympathetic character, as the script intended. I want to see more of his movies, too. We Americans may not appreciate his humor the way the Europeans did, but this film clearly displays his ability as an actor in possession of considerable emotional depth.

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t_atzmueller

If it takes me to explain to you that the French take their cuisine very seriously, you probably have just arrived on this planet and seek somebody to take you to our leader. Sure, cheese that reek like dead mans feet, stuffed duck or escargot (that's snails, in case you live in the States) are not everybody's cup of tea. But taste is debatable. Quality is not and for things concerning (culinary) quality, you need not look further than La Belle France. It doesn't come as a huge surprise hence that many French films concern themselves with the kitchen and even less of a surprise that master-comedian (and passionate chef in his own rights) Louis de Funes would eventually take the topic on.Publicist Charles Duchemin (de Funes) is the bane of all French restaurants: His food-guide bestows the much coveted Duchemin-Stars upon the restaurants (or takes them away if warranted – which is more often the case than not). Having some of the keenest taste-buds in all of France, Duchemin takes it upon himself to "test" the individual restaurants, usually disguised as a harmless (looking) old lady or an American tourist. But Duchemin has a nemesis of his own: scheming Jacques Tricatel (deliciously slimy Julien Guiomar), industrial food-producer that delivers virtually artificial food to chains and roadside Inns. Being challenged to a TV-interview by Tricatel, Duchemin (after having almost been 'poisoned' by eating some of Tricatels produces) has lost his sense of taste, yet must save French cuisine somehow.It is my firm opinion that de Funes later films were also his best. This goes for "The Mad Adventures of Rabbi Jacob", his second-to-last feature "The Cabbage Soup" as well as "L'aile ou la cuisine", filmed shortly after de Funes had recovered from a massive heart-attack. Perhaps it was his failing health and age that made the comedian (slightly) move away from his hyper-paced screen-persona to a more subtle humour (despite all the typical trademarks still being present, albeit tuned down). In the past, de Funes sidekicks had a hard time not being paled out by de Funes performance, but in his later years you could tell, that the comedian timed his humour so as to give the other cast-member some breathing space. In this case comedian Coluche, playing de Funes son and reluctant partner-in-crime, who would rather be a circus-clown than a connoisseur. Like de Funes, Coluche has mastered the art of physical slapstick without turning the gags into an infantile farce. The scene, where he inherently mimics a waiter with a nervous disorder, is pure slapstick gold, turning it almost into an art-form.Apart from being one of de Funes last few films, it does have a rather depressing prophecy. If you have travelled through France and Belgium, the hearts of European cuisine in recent days, you will have noticed the abundance of fast-food-joints in the cities and highway-stops. You may even have tried the grub there (I refuse to call it food) and, if you have seen the film, you may have looked around, looking whether you'd spot the "Tricatel"-logo anywhere, perhaps printed on the thigh of a chicken – if indeed chicken it was that they were serving.Still, the film remains a delight and a clean 8/10

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Quadruplex

This is undoubtedly one of the better flicks with de Funès. But the writers sacrificed logic for cheap laughs. After a while, that gets very annoying.Examples? The scene in the filthy restaurant. "Duchemin", disguised as American tourist, is not only served the lousiest food. He also witnesses numerous yucky incidents in the kitchen. The only possible reaction for a restaurant critic would have been to leave the scene immediately and alert the board of health.But for a few, not overly funny jokes, the plot stays in the restaurant. What a riot...When Duchemin and his son intrude the Tricatel factory, we are lured to believe that there, chickens, fish and lettuce are made from rubber. That may look funny, but it totally undermines Duchemin's quest for excellent food. It would have made more sense if they had found yucky conditions, low-grade ingredients etc. But this would not have induced as many cheap laughs as plastic chicken - unless the writers would have bothered to come up with a plot that is slightly more credible AND funny.If "L'aile ou la cuisse" is on TV for free and you have nothing better to do: watch it. If your mother tongue isn't French and you want to study the language: get a DVD (provided the french version is on it).But don't expect an overly clever story...

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RealLiveClaude

This movie, though shot a while back and its two stars (De Funes and Coluche) are gone up there, is still actual.A renowned French restaurant reviewer, Duchemin, is about to quit and leave it to his rather bohemian son, who prefers doing a clown in a circus rather than follows his dad's footsteps. A food promoter, Tricatel, wants to nail him by providing his bad "fast food" through regional French restaurants, by challenging him in a TV show. Wanting to prove his food is no good, Duchemin decides to take his son on a restaurant tour across France, but Tricatel gets hold of the scheme. It's up to them to get into Tricatel's food processing plant to prove that he serves vile food to french restaurateurs.This type of movie makes us think of what can be served in restaurants might not be as good as it pretends. However, lots of funny moments, and Coluche love interest, Marguerite, is not bad to see either in this movie.A must-see if you think twice before eating in a restaurant...

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